Luxury can be recycled - Nothing is thrown away, everything is repaired #52


For a long time, “upcycling” was an aberration for luxury brands, which were constantly launching new collections. But the pandemic and the ecological conscience have gone through it: from Vuitton to Armani, via Maison Margiela, everyone is starting to create something new with something old. And claiming it.

“I’m saying yes to recycling” was the slogan that the models of the Emporio Armani fashion show in Milan in January, before the pandemic began, wore on their clothes made from “regenerated materials”. The Covid-19 crisis seems to have reinforced the Italian designer Giorgio Armani’s choice of so-called “sustainable” fashion, he who, in an open letter (published in Women’s Wear Daily, April 3), had protested against the “waste” of fashion, its overproduction and a rhythm of collections that had become “criminal”.

In the luxury sector, he is not the only one to change his discourse. Louis Vuitton also dares, for the first time, to “upcycling” (giving new life to an existing garment by transforming it): the spring-summer 2021 men’s collection will include 25 looks created from existing materials (drawn from stocks or surplus materials), 25 looks from previous collections and totally upcycling pieces such as the summer 2019 upright trainers transformed into low-cut trainers by artistic director Virgil Abloh. Making new out of old and saying so, in an environment used to offering new things for more than just reason: this is the new face of luxury in the pandemic era, with a less guilt-ridden appearance.

Le Monde

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