While brands are pledging increasingly ambitious commitments to reduce their environmental impacts, from organic sourcing to climate positivity, they are overlooking plastic, say experts. Synthetic fibres, in addition to releasing microplastics into the environment and often using toxic chemicals in their production, rely on continued oil and natural gas extraction at a time when researchers say that the world needs to move away from all fossil fuels. Recycled polyester has become popular as a more sustainable choice, which critics say exacerbates the problem because it enshrines the continued role of synthetics in fashion’s future and enables the industry to otherwise continue operating business as usual.
There’s significant debate over what the best long-term solutions are for the synthetic clothing that already exists and what the ideal mix of materials should be moving forward. Brands counter that synthetics are necessary for apparel performance. But experts say synthetics pose problems for the planet that the industry cannot solve, especially if it doesn’t acknowledge their existence, pervasiveness and severity first.
“They’re not willing to change their dirty habits, so they’re trying to greenwash their way out of this crisis,” says Urska Trunk, campaign manager at the Changing Markets Foundation. “This reliance on synthetic fibres basically perpetuates the industry’s dependence on fossil fuel extraction — and that’s in the midst of the climate crisis. This will inevitably worsen because no brand has made a clear commitment to phase out their reliance on fossil fuel-based fashion.”